By Daniel Politi
Nacho Fernández Suárez shudders at the thought of his eight years serving as an administrative aide running various errands in the Argentine Congress, where he participated in an inclusion initiative for people with disabilities.
“They harassed me, they shoved me around, and treated me badly,” noted Fernández Suárez, 34, who lives with an intellectual disability. He also mentioned feeling unchallenged, receiving minimal tasks.
These days, boredom is not an issue for Fernández Suárez, who has joined the team at a well-known restaurant in Buenos Aires, recognized as possibly the first establishment in Argentina mostly run by neurodivergent employees.
Alamesa aims to redefine what workplace inclusion means for individuals who often lack a clear employment path post-education.
Although Fernández Suárez’s salary is roughly one-third of what he earned as an aide, his mother, Alejandra Ferrari, expressed his excitement, as he “feels essential.” (The Congress program that once employed him is no longer active.)
“Having a purpose in work,” she remarked, “transforms your life.”
That very realization motivated Dr. Fernando Polack, a distinguished pediatric infectious disease expert in Argentina, to establish Alamesa this year as part of his heartfelt mission to find a way for his daughter, Julia, 26, who is autistic, to achieve independence in a world that appears unwelcoming to her requirements.
“I understood that the means to shape Julia’s future was to create something tangible, which had to be a job,” Polack shared. “And for that, I needed to develop that job.”
He utilized his personal and family resources, arriving at the concept of a restaurant partly inspired by fond memories of feeling comfort and safety gathered around holiday dinners with his large family.
Polack, who conducted clinical trials for Pfizer’s COVID-19 vaccine in Argentina, quickly realized he could channel his years of systematic, scientific experience to assemble a team composed of individuals with unconventional skills.
Julia became the inaugural official employee of the restaurant, which subsequently expanded its team with other neurodivergent individuals introduced through Julia and communal connections.
“Identifying potential is our main focus — perhaps the essence of this initiative,” Polack stated, “recognizing the unique capabilities of each person, their richness, and what they can offer.”
Sebastián Wainstein, Alamesa’s executive director responsible for daily operations, mentions that the restaurant thrives on the diversity among neurodivergent individuals.
Fernández Suárez, for instance, “is wonderfully chaotic,” Wainstein noted, “but he is a vibrant personality.”
“He engages very well with customers,” Wainstein added.
Among the 40 neurodivergent team members at Alamesa, Fernández Suárez stands out as he openly discusses his intellectual disability, which he attributes to having contracted meningitis during infancy.
Most cannot articulate their disabilities, and inquiries about diagnosis are not made prior to hiring, says Wainstein.
No specific roles are assigned to the neurodivergent employees at Alamesa as the objective is for all to be capable of performing any task.
Polack asserts that Alamesa’s “true essence” lies in leveraging each person’s strengths to “step away from the self-centered notion” that neurotypical individuals are the superior group.
“Alamesa challenges the belief that those with neurodivergence aspire to be like those without it,” Polack commented.
Through this mission, the restaurant, now featured in a recent documentary, has fostered a community.
“We enjoy outings to the cinema, coffee shops, and bowling,” shared Sofía Aguirre, 27, a neurodivergent staff member.
Located in a vibrant upper-middle-class area of Buenos Aires filled with shops and eateries, Alamesa serves as a sanctuary. The music is played softly, and soundproofing materials on the walls and ceilings prevent the echoing noise of conversations.
This is one of the many ways Alamesa accommodates its workforce, many of whom are especially sensitive to loud and sudden noises, a common characteristic among those on the autism spectrum.
The restaurant operates during lunch hours only and features a cutting-edge kitchen devoid of knives, as all ingredients arrive pre-prepared. No open flames are present; the cooking relies on specialized ovens utilizing hot air and steam.
To assist employees with reading challenges, ingredients are color-coded for easy identification with any of the 10 main dishes and five desserts featured on the menu.
The menu, highlighting international fare, presents a diverse selection of meals, including a pastrami sandwich, salmon with panko breading, and Moroccan chicken served with couscous.
“Initially, many patrons came simply for the concept of an inclusive restaurant; the food was a secondary consideration,” Wainstein stated. “Now, customers also visit because they realize, ‘I had an excellent meal.’”
Alamesa employs around a dozen neurotypical workers, many of whom are psychology students or recent graduates from a local university, who offer support to their colleagues as required.
Upon opening, the restaurant experienced a surge of reservations for several weeks due to widespread media coverage and celebrity endorsements, including the notable Pope Francis, who hails from Argentina.
“I commend you for your work,” the pope conveyed in a video message to Alamesa’s team. “Thank you for your unique and creative contributions to society, reflecting each of your individual efforts.”
Although neurotypical employees manage functions like processing payments and liaising with suppliers, they do so accompanied by a neurodivergent colleague to train in these roles.
The aim is to eventually render neurotypical staff unnecessary.
“Our vision, which was always grounded in reality rather than utopia,” Wainstein elaborated, “is that eventually, all neurotypicals will transition out and the neurodivergent staff will take over.”
