By Bianca Padró Ocasio
Often passed by travelers en route to Cuzco in the Andes or the surf spots further north, Peru’s capital, with its dramatic cliffs distinguishing its modern skyline and colonial structures from the ocean, is growing in appeal. The downturn in tourism due to the pandemic, followed by political turmoil in 2022 and 2023, has slowed visitor numbers, but with over 10 million residents, Lima is enticing tourists to linger. It proudly features three restaurants recognized on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, as chefs incorporate Indigenous Andean and Amazonian elements into their seafood-focused menus, accompanied by the influx of the Venezuelan diaspora enriching the local gastronomy with traditional delights like arepas.
ITINERARY
Friday
4 p.m. | Cycle along the cliffside
Grab a bike from the shared docking station on Federico Villarreal Avenue (install the CityBike Lima app; 4.50 soles, or around $1.20, for 30 minutes) and pedal along the malecón, the scenic cliffside walkway overlooking the Pacific Ocean in Miraflores, a picturesque neighborhood favored by visitors. (You’re likely to encounter English being spoken in the bars and shops near Kennedy Park, a landmark known for its street art, food stalls, and a beloved colony of stray cats.) Cycle approximately 30 minutes south along the coast to the southern tip of Miraflores. Along the way, enjoy parks adorned with flowers brimming with joggers and street vendors, alongside surfers riding the waves below. The Parque del Amor is a vibrant stop along the route, featuring a sculpture titled “The Kiss” by Peruvian artist Víctor Delfín.
6 p.m. | Shop for ceramics
After returning your bike at the intersection of Armendáriz Boulevard and La Paz Avenue, cross the overpass into Barranco, an artistic coastal neighborhood filled with plazas, murals, and trendy dining spots. From there, walk 20 minutes to Mirador Sousa, a sunset viewpoint favored for its clear skies. Next, visit Dédalo Arte y Artesanía, a shop offering an array of Peruvian ceramics, textiles, books, toys, and jewelry that are hard to find elsewhere in Lima. Look for teapots and vases by Mundo de Barro, which are hand-painted with intricate botanical and Indigenous designs. Dédalo also features a café in its back patio, ideal for a peaceful break from the surrounding hustle. For further shopping options in the area, UNO and El Clóset de Mi Hermana both offer clothing and accessories in minimalist contemporary styles.
8 p.m. | Try Venezuelan flavors
In Lima, home to over 1 million Venezuelans, a new wave of that diaspora is carving out a space for its cultural identity. Last year, Venezuelan chef Juan Luis Martínez launched Clon, one of Barranco’s more intriguing dining establishments. Much like at his award-winning upscale venue, Mérito, Martínez blends elements from his homeland into Peru’s seafood-dominant cuisine: enjoy an arepa, a corn-based flatbread common in Venezuela, filled with pejerrey, an anchovy-like fish native and essential to Peru (23 soles). Another offering, the vuelve a la vida acevichado, presents a zesty Venezuelan seafood cocktail reminiscent of Peruvian ceviche (56 soles). Clon, similar to other local seafood venues, often alters its dishes to adhere to Peru’s seasonal fishing regulations aimed at enhancing sustainability. Reservations are recommended.
10 p.m. | Stay up late with locals
The unpretentious vibe is part of the allure at Juanito de Barranco, a cash-only bar located just a few doors from Clon. Having been around since 1937, Juanito is a quintessential representation of a traditional taberna or bodegón, a laid-back bar and eatery. Staff members know the regulars by name, artists gather to hang posters for upcoming exhibitions or performances, and most nights, a guitarist wanders among the tables serenading with classic romantic tunes for tips. Enjoy a bottle of Pilsen beer (8 soles), Peru’s favored light lager, or opt for a chilcano (11 soles), a timeless cocktail that combines pisco — a grape-based spirit — with ginger ale. Snack on a sandwich filled with jamón del norte, smoked ham, prepared with or without ají, a zesty chile blend (15 soles). Open until 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.
Saturday
9 a.m. | Swim with sea lions
From Miraflores, take a 30-minute Uber ride (around 25 soles) to Callao, a small coastal province situated north of Lima. There, board a vessel with tour operator Mar Adentro Excursions to explore the Palomino Islands, a protected chain of islets, where you can encounter South American sea lions, Humboldt penguins, and seabirds. (From July to October, you may also catch a glimpse of dolphins and humpback whales migrating north.) Tour participants can swim among the sea lions; the young pups are usually inquisitive and likely to swim near you (guides recommend maintaining a 40-foot distance from the island where the adults are resting). Tours are conducted in English and Spanish; cost is 170 soles per person for 2 1/2 hours. Make a reservation via the website or WhatsApp (+51 958 877 667). Don’t forget to bring a swimsuit, sunblock, and, if necessary, seasickness medication.
1:30 p.m. | Eat like a fisherman
Head to La Punta, a picturesque coastal neighborhood in Callao filled with colorful houses featuring wooden balconies and eateries playing salsa music to attract customers. Enjoy a traditional inexpensive fisherman’s lunch at Don Giuseppe, a beloved and casual cevichería, or seafood eatery. The pan con pejerrey (9 soles), a sandwich packed with breaded and fried fish, onions, and tartar sauce or mayonnaise, is a notable dish in Callao. Naturally, there’s ceviche, which Peruvians typically savor during daylight hours rather than in the evening (Don Giuseppe closes at 4 p.m.). While in Callao, visit the galleries at Monumental Callao, the district’s revitalized historic center, where numerous older buildings now serve as artists’ studios. The safest means of navigating Callao, especially beyond tourist-friendly La Punta, is by car.
6 p.m. | Unwind with a lonche
With a penchant for sweet treats, Limeños partake in lonche, their late afternoon coffee or tea break, making it a perfect occasion for a dessert. From the LUM, take a stroll approximately 15 minutes to the Teoría de los 6 Cafés in Miraflores, a café renowned for its welcoming staff and high-quality coffee made with Peruvian beans. Indulge in a cortado (8 soles) paired with doughnuts in various flavors such as raspberry-chocolate, mango sticky rice, or caramelized popcorn (10 soles). In October, look out for their rendition of the turrón de Doña Pepa, a traditional layered cookie dessert with Afro-Peruvian origins that gains popularity in September during the Lord of Miracles religious festival.
8:30 p.m. | Sample Nikkei cuisine
Since the late 19th century, the Japanese migrants to Peru have established a significant presence in the country’s politics, culture, and culinary scene. Few dining spots merge these two culinary influences as effectively as Tomo Cocina Nikkei, located in Miraflores, where you can relish vibrant tiraditos, a Nikkei specialty of sashimi-style raw fish slices marinated in a zesty Peruvian dressing (an octopus tiradito starter costs 55 soles). Tomo’s highlight is its innovative nigiri. Here, rice balls adorned with local raw fish are seasoned with onion, tomato, cilantro, and a yellow chili sauce called chalaca, or with an Amazonian fruit known as cocona (nigiri is priced at about 25 to 80 soles for two pieces). Sit at the sushi counter and request the chefs to select your dishes. Reservations are advisable.
10:30 p.m. | Sign off with a drink
The unpretentious Bar Capitán Meléndez is somewhat easy to overlook, nestled down some stairs and through a shared patio with two late-night pizza and chicken-wing establishments. This modest tavern, offering only a handful of seats, boasts a back bar displaying what appears to be every variety of pisco found in Peru and serves one of the finest pisco sours in the city (31 soles), a local cocktail combining this spirit with lime, simple syrup, and egg whites for a frothy finish. Locals appreciate its tranquil atmosphere, providing an escape from the bustling bars populating Miraflores’ touristy Berlin Street: no loud music, bright neon lights, or staff stationed outside to attract patrons. Even during busy nights, it’s likely that the owner, Roberto Meléndez, will be the one serving you.
Sunday
9 a.m. | Fuel up like a surfer
For breakfast, venture to Caleta Dolsa in Barranco, a coffee shop and eatery featuring a design inspired by Lima’s surfing culture. They serve coffee roasted on-site, sourced from producers in the highlands and the Peruvian Amazon, along with fresh juices. Try their tropical-inspired smoothie bowls made with local fruits, such as one with dragon fruit or açaí (starting around 28 soles) and a cappuccino (9 soles) with house-made almond milk (4 soles). The café also offers free Wi-Fi, a handy perk.
11:30 a.m. | Go underground
Explore the early-19th-century catacombs at the San Francisco Convent and Catacomb Museum located in Lima’s historic center. Established in 1546 (and restored several times after severe earthquakes), the convent is believed to have been the largest in the Americas at its peak and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988. Along with the convent’s religious artwork, the main draw is its crypts beneath the main chapel, where it’s estimated over 25,000 individuals were interred. Visitors can view skulls and bones through an impressive network of underground chambers. Tickets (20 soles) encompass 45-minute guided tours, which are scheduled every 20 minutes. Alternatively, take a look at the nearby Museo de Arte de Lima, the main art museum in Lima, housed in a stunning late-19th-century palace. Tickets for foreign visitors are 40 soles.
1 p.m. | Get a bird’s-eye view
A visit to Lima would be incomplete without sampling chifa, Chinese Peruvian cuisine, a testament to the migrants who arrived as contract laborers in the late 19th century. Chifa El Dorado is a lively and long-established restaurant offering hearty, affordable meals and charming decor on the 18th floor of the building in the Lince district, a 20- to 30-minute drive south of the historic center. Beyond its cost-effectiveness, the venue is well worth the journey due to one main highlight: every table offers a stunning 360-degree view of the city. A must-try chifa dish is the aeropuerto (38 soles) — aptly named as all ingredients converge there, akin to an airport. This dish comprises a lavish fried rice combination featuring noodles, plantains, vegetables, and a selection of meats.
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KEY STOPS
The Palomino Islands, a series of islets near the port in Callao, serve as a venue for swimming with sea lions and spotting rare Humboldt penguins.
The malecón in Miraflores, a cliffside walkway and bicycle path, provides a charming perspective of the city’s coastal regions, allowing you to watch surfers ride the waves underneath or pause for some ice cream from a street vendor at the Parque del Amor.
The San Francisco Convent and Catacomb Museum is a historical site in Lima’s center dating back to the Spanish colonial era, attracting visitors with its crypts.
WHERE TO EAT
Clon, the latest venue from acclaimed chef Juan Luis Martínez, melds Venezuelan culinary influences with Peru’s seafood-based fare in the Barranco district.
Tomo Cocina Nikkei presents an upscale dining option in Miraflores, where Japanese and Peruvian culinary traditions coalesce.
Juanito de Barranco, a relaxed bar founded in the 1930s, is a go-to place for cocktails and sandwiches.
Don Giuseppe, a cozy lunch spot in Callao’s La Punta area, offers Lima’s classic seafood dishes, including the pan con pejerrey, a fried-fish sandwich.
Bar Capitán Meléndez is a straightforward late-night bar recognized for its exceptional pisco sours.
Chifa El Dorado, located on the 18th floor of an unremarkable building in the Lince district, offers panoramic views of the city.
WHERE TO STAY
Miraflores Park, one of Lima’s premier hotels, nestles on a tranquil street surrounded by parks. Savor breakfast with a seaside view at the rooftop Observatory, or enjoy fine dining at its Tragaluz restaurant. Rooms begin around $543 a night (with many hotels pricing in U.S. dollars).
Hyatt Centric San Isidro Lima is situated in the prestigious San Isidro district, approximately a 20-minute drive (a short journey amidst Lima’s heavy traffic) from both the historic center and Barranco. The hotel bar, Celeste, is among the few upscale rooftop lounges available in Lima. Rooms start at about $186 a night.
For short-term accommodations, search for Airbnbs in the secure and easily accessible neighborhoods of San Isidro, Miraflores, or Barranco. Rates begin at around $50 a night.
