By Eric Asimov
Ten years ago, I would never have believed I would be praising Chianti Classico Riserva. However, circumstances have shifted, and here I am, doing just that.
For a long time, I was a significant admirer of Chianti Classico, and that admiration remains. It ranks among the most under-appreciated and undervalued wines globally. Yet, up until recently, my enjoyment of the Riservas—a more structured, denser, and pricier counterpart—was infrequent.
Producers often seemed intent on validating the assumed superiority of the Riservas by aging the wines in small barrels of new French oak, a practice they witnessed with other high-priced wines around the globe. This method imparted a flashy sheen that, in my view, masked the stunning purity of the sangiovese grape.
This trend was not confined to Tuscany, the birthplace of Chianti Classico. During the 1990s and 2000s, winemakers worldwide believed their finest wines needed to be powerful and oaky. The elegance and nuance were, all too often, sacrificed for strength, brawn, and showiness. Such wines showcased exaggerated winemaking techniques rather than the unique terroir that emerges from the vineyard.
For a considerable period, my advice was to save your funds. The less expensive options, which typically avoided the same heavy-handed treatment, were frequently superior.
However, over the last ten years, winemakers globally have dialed back their approaches, allowing vineyards and wines to express themselves more authentically. This shift has led to remarkable improvement. The splendor of wines like Chianti Classico Riserva, previously shrouded in layers of embellishment, is now clear. It’s a delightful transformation. I discovered nine bottles from recent years that I enthusiastically endorse.
Let’s define these categories. The Chianti Classico designation encompasses three types of wine. The first, Chianti Classico, is officially labeled as Annata or vintage and informally known as normale. These wines must mature for a minimum of 12 months before release.
The second type, Riservas, requires at least 24 months of aging, including three months in bottles, before they can be sold. The third classification is Gran Selezione, which must age for 30 months, including three in bottles, and can only be produced from estate-grown grapes, not purchased fruit.
Here are nine outstanding Chianti Classico Riservas, listed by price.
Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico Riserva Lareale 2020, 14%, $35
Lamole (pronounced LA-mo-lay) is a sub-region within the Greve-in-Chianti area where the altitude promotes wines with finesse and elegance. This particular bottle from Lamole di Lamole is straightforward, slightly more concentrated than a Chianti Classico normale, and delightful to consume, though somewhat simpler than several superior bottles. (Santa Margherita USA, Miami Beach)
Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2019, 14%, $40
This aromatic, medium-bodied wine is sourced from the Barberino Tavarnelle region, situated on the western side of the appellation. It’s refined, well-balanced, and relatively lean compared to wines from the south, such as Fèlsina, yet it remains intense and lightly tannic. (MW Imports, White Plains, New York)
Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva Sa’etta 2020, 13.5%, $43
Among Riservas, this one is quite approachable. It’s dense and concentrated, yet it features light, fine tannins. The wine is pure, earthy, and well-balanced, crafted entirely from biodynamically farmed sangiovese in the Panzano commune. Like most wines from Monte Bernardi, it typically embodies elegance coupled with substantial minerality. (T. Edward Wines, New York)
Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva Caparsino 2019, 13.5%, $53
This 100% organically cultivated sangiovese from Caparsa is exceptional. It has a somewhat traditional style, being dense, rich, and tannic, yet it remains pure and expressive, offering earthy, nuanced floral, and mineral notes. You can enjoy this wine now, but it will keep evolving and enhancing for at least a decade. (Artisan Wines, Norwalk, Connecticut)
Poggerino Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Bugialla 2021, 14.5%, $53
Poggerino practices biodynamic farming in its high-altitude vineyards located in Radda-in-Chianti. This wine is rich, concentrated, and relatively tannic, yet it exhibits purity and beautiful aromatics, brimming with energy. Allow this bottle a few years of aging before opening. (Fleet Street Wine Merchants, Moorestown, New Jersey)
Fèlsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 2020, 14%, $60
Situated in Castelnuovo Berardenga on the southern edge of Chianti Classico, Fèlsina tends to create denser, richer wines due to the warmer, lower-altitude vineyards. Nevertheless, they retain their characteristic finesse and focus. The 2020 Rancia, crafted entirely from sangiovese, is luscious, supple, fruit-forward, yet elegant. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, New York)
Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico Riserva 2019, 13.5%, $64
This vibrant, stunning wine is produced entirely from organically grown sangiovese from high-altitude vines in Radda-in-Chianti. The elevation contributes to the wine’s lightness and refinement. It serves as a classic representation of intensity without heaviness. (PortoVino, Buffalo, New York)
Istine Chianti Classico Riserva Levigne 2020, 13.5%, $65
Angela Fronti of Istine represents the wave of women taking over family estates that traditionally went to sons and sons-in-law. Her wines increasingly showcase distinction each year. The Levigne is known for its bright, vibrant, and energetic profile, yet it remains relatively light, refined, and beautifully aromatic. (SoilAir Selection, New York)
Monteraponi Chianti Classico Riserva Il Campitello 2019, 13.5%, $84
Since its initial bottling in 2003, Monteraponi has emerged as one of Chianti Classico’s premier estates. Each year, Michele Briganti and Alessandra Deiana produce remarkable wines—generous but precise. The 2019 Il Campitello, which consists of 90% sangiovese and a mix of canaiolo and colorino—both cultivated organically—is concentrated yet nimble and delightful to taste right now. (Grand Cru Selections, New York)
